Artico is confirmed as Gambero Rosso 3 cones also for 2021. An article by one of our students, chef Angelina
GUIDES THAT DO NOT "GUIDE"
Whenever the Gambero Rosso guides make their annual appearance, criticisms are also inevitable, from professionals and consumers, about who, how, when and why, some receive breads, wedges and cones and others do not.
In the immense and much discussed planet of gastronomic guides, one gets lost a bit. Many want to put a sticker on the door or a certificate on the walls, while others snub them, until they refuse the famous stars of the Michelin guide (in France, for example).
Very complex speech, which would open windows on "ephemeral" gardens, considering that, unfortunately, there are few inspectors around and that the famous stickers come out of the printers following a "mailing list" that is not at all updated.
Proof?? After the closure of my Parisian restaurant, for three consecutive years, I received stickers and certificates from famous guides, including Italian ones, completely unaware of my closure. How many times have I smiled, amused. With this, as De Filippo said to Totò, I said everything!
Furthermore, I cannot fail to mention the person who guides them following the logic of the “highest bidder” and the most fashionable sponsor. If "he" does not notice you, you will be depressed for life. And this too is another story.
I have visited many pizzerias, restaurants, gelaterie, bakeries, taking a careful look at everything (even the toilets). Unquestionably, I always agree with the lists drawn up by the shrimp, in accordance with the quality of the product and service offered.
GAMBERO ROSSO 3 CONES
Getting to the heart of the subject, a recent criticism of the list of the best gelaterie in Italy 2021, drawn up by "Gambero Rosso", caught my attention. There are many "complaints" about the quality of the artisanal gelato produced in the north, compared to that of the south, which claims the paternity.
Regardless of history and legends, I can say that today's children of art, as well as artisans, with the intention of preserving ancient family recipes, do not lend themselves to passing on one of the most secular crafts. Myself, eager to learn the art of gelato, I had to go to Milan because there are no training schools in Southern Italy, much less, I found an artisan who wanted to teach me, even for a fee. Indeed, I was told: come and work (for free) with me, all summer, and learn.
I start looking for a training school. There are various proposals, some tempting, others indecent, in which in just 3 days, they claim to teach you how to make Italian-style "artisan" gelato and also help you to open a gelateria after the course.
It begins almost as a gamble and not without difficulty, what will become the story of a great and successful entrepreneurial project. The whole family is involved, as Laura Poloni, thirty years old, daughter of the couple, is the fourth generation of family ice cream makers.
ARTICO Gelateria, was born in March 2012, in Milan, Isola, from the idea and the union of three families, Poloni, Fioretti and Matrone. Already linked by commercial relationships and friendship, they decide to undertake this path together, combining their respective skills, specifically, technical, economic and architectural.
Bet won. At the end of the first season, seven months after the opening, the club reached the "breakeven point". Bringing all of Novate's know-how to the re-nascent Milanese neighborhood turns out to be the winning idea.
New York industrial style decoration, laboratory on sight, 32 flavors, strictly seasonal, zero "semi-finished", quality raw materials, excellences of Lombardy and beyond, super-prepared laboratory and sales staff, everything is studied in detail, for offer the best of artisan ice cream in all its glory. Excellent response from the public.
It is necessary to understand and highlight that in northern Italy, gelato is a real institution. It is experienced at 360 ° all year round and 90% of the gelaterie PURE and not just a corner, set up in the summer, next to the pastry shop. There are about 600 gelaterie in Milan as well, where some of the best gelato makers in Italy operate.
In 2017, the second headquarters of Artico were born, at the Duomo and the training school for gelato makers, born from the growing number of consultations given, over the years, around the world, by the master Maurizio and family.
Note of merit for many students of the training school, who, to date, have received the 3 Cones. Who knows one day, I too will succeed.
THE SCHOOL
I attended the Arctic gelato school in 2019. Three intense weeks of emotions and certainly one of the best training I have received during my career. I would renew the experience with my eyes closed. Starting from the study of the raw material and then creating the formula that will transform it into gelato, is one of the most exciting subjects I have ever studied.
What still amazes me today is Maestro Maurizio's patience and empathy. Animated by a palpable passion for quality gelato, he did not hesitate for a single moment to teach me all his knowledge about him, a sign of great humility and wisdom.
Surely this is the key to success. Anyone can train future professionals, but how many follow that ethics that makes the difference? All those who attend the Arctic courses will have a solid foundation for producing good, healthy gelato, in compliance with the rules and craftsmanship, as well as basic management and food safety knowledge.
The courses have a maximum of eight students and are divided into three categories: Basic Course, Advanced Course and Professional Course.
220sqm in industrial style, ultra modern, with a classroom and a state-of-the-art laboratory and the possibility of privatizing the location for private parties and corporate events.
The Professional Course. A three-week program, 75 hours of lessons, from Monday to Friday, including theory, practical tests in the laboratory, counter sales technique, management, marketing and communication, sector HACCP course with issue of the certificate. I was provided with all the teaching materials, stationery, the school shopper in fabric, the gelato Chef jacket with my name and logo, the apron, the certificate of attendance, the school manual and the cookbook. For students from abroad, the school offers an interpreting service and the rental of an apartment for the school.
I learned balancing, freezing, pasteurization and how to correctly make a recipe, both classic and innovative. An entire section is dedicated to chocolate and its complex processing, starting with the cocoa beans, the supply chain and the best proposals on the market.
In this regard, I want to point out that, at the end of each summer season, the ARTICO and SIR OLIVER ice cream parlors organize an event entirely dedicated to chocolate, the CHOCOLATE SHOW. A showcase entirely dedicated to chocolate ice cream only, with exclusive and unmissable recipes.
The Master will always be present, following your project, providing after-course advice if necessary. The good reputation is primordial and at home, as well as the kindness, courtesy and helpfulness of the whole team.
FUTURE PROJECTS
2021 opens with two new adventures. The opening of Artico Brera, a few steps from the Pinacoteca and shortly, a fourth, in the Lambrate district.
Furthermore, starting from April 29th, we will be able to admire some creations by maestro Maurizio on the Gambero Rosso channel, in the "DOLCEMENTE CON .." program conducted by Pastry Chef Maurizio Santin.
TASTING
During the course, we developed and created many recipes, learned the display case and the methods of conservation. Fruit, milk, cream, always fresh cheeses. I immediately noticed the sobriety of the presentation, without too many frills, (more suited to my style) and the lack of all those strange colors, to which we are used.
Is the pistachio green? I would say no as a blue / light blue ice cream cannot be handmade. I'm talking about pistachio because it is the gelato that impressed me the most. To be precise, the SALTED PISTACHIO. I have never eaten a gelato so good, and, talking with the master Maurizio, I discover that it was made in 2009 and that still holds the primacy of the best-selling flavor, not only in Italy but in all the gelaterie that the Master has helped to open around the world.
I tasted the flavors made in the laboratory, both in the Artico Gelaterie and by competitors, including a well-known ice cream shop in the Galleria in Milan. With the eye of those who know a little more on the subject and with the tricks dictated by the Master, I was able to see some defects of some, the "pastiness" of others, too sweet and badly balanced. In the Artico Gelaterie I found the same quality of the product I had made at school. This speaks volumes about the quality of the course. Back in Naples, I went around the most "popular" gelaterie for a while and still today something escapes me.
To conclude, a good artisan gelato must be made with fresh raw materials, low in fat, well balanced and light, that is, it must contain little air. All of this is possible only if you have a deep knowledge of the production process, which must be careful and meticulous. Beware of too bright colors, with a grainy appearance and not too recognizable flavors. Good gelato to everyone and congratulations to the Artico Group for their great success and professionalism.
